Le petit cadeau

"The little gift" is the name of this little gift shop in central Sarlat. I'm not sure if it still exists. I found it on Google, but when I look at street view, I can't find it. I'm either wrong or it's gone. I hope Pinocchio found a home.

Le petit cadeau.

We had rain and a mild thunderstorm yesterday. We might possibly get the same today. I have no plans to go out; my wine run was successful, so we're stocked up. I'm thinking of making a pissaladière for lunch today. That's an onion pizza popular in Nice and the surrounding region. It's named for pissalat, a pungent sauce made with salty fish like anchovies. In place of the sauce, anchovies out of the can are often used. I won't be using anchovies today, but I will garnish the pizza with black olives, also a famous product of Nice and traditional on a pissaladière.

Set up and ready to go

These restaurants in central Sarlat (there are two in this photo) are ready for the lunch crowd. While we were there, we ate in the neighborhood somewhere, but I don't remember the exact place. A lot of Sarlat's restaurants look like life-sized works of art.

I could spend a couple of hours here lingering over a long lunch.

On today's agenda: a winery run. I plan to drive up to the co-op in Saint-Romain (I say "up" because it's north of us) for some of their red and rosé. I like the co-op because their wine is good and they operate a boutique for sales. There's no reason to call ahead to be sure that someone will be there to sell or to just take a chance and then be disappointed when no one's available. Many wineries around us have tasting and sales rooms that are staffed during business hours, but there are just as many (mom and pop operations) that don't.

Market day in Sarlat

It's a big market with a lot of vendors. There are also cafés and restaurants and shops along the streets of the town center. It's all very lively, as much a tourist attraction as a working market.

Sarlat's city hall makes a dramatic backdrop for colorful market stalls and outdoor cafés.

Yesterday was about as hot as predicted. Thankfully, the house stayed cool inside, almost as if it were air-conditioned. But more pleasant. Today will be a little cooler and there's rain in the forecast. It looks like the rain will not make it to us after all.

Sarlat

We spent the morning of our first full day in the Dordogne in the city of Sarlat. It was market day and the center of town was bustling with activity. Foie gras is the signature food of the region, and it was on offer everywhere.

A book about foie gras with recipes taken through a restaurant window.

Today should be the hottest of the week. Predictions are for a high of 33ºC (91ºF) where we live.

Cuisine au gîte

This is the kitchen in the house we rented near Sarlat back in 2006. Nothing fancy, but it was well-equipped and neatly organized. Just behind where I was standing to take this photo is dining table, then the small living room with a fireplace, a wood stove, and a television. I remember asking the guy who owned the place if I could have some firewood for the wood stove. Those April evenings in the Dordugne were chilly. He was happy to let us use it.

Interesting choice of colors.

Lines and angles

More geometrics (I'm sure that's a word; autocorrect doesn't seem to think so). Probably still in La Roque-Gageac.

Walls and steps.

Sorry to keep harping on the weather, but it's what's happening at the moment. I'm really not complaining; it's more observation and wonderment. Our mornings continue to be very fall-like, almost cold. Most days warm up to be pleasant afternoons. I arranged for a heating oil delivery this coming week. We're talking about ordering firewood for the season. As for the yard, we're starting, slowly, to prepare for fall and winter. The ground beneath the apple trees is littered with fallen apples. I'm not picking them up (although Tasha is; she thinks they're balls for playing). So far, the lawnmower is fine making applesauce. I'll see the next time I mow how it handles this quantity. I need to contact our landscape guy to see, a) if he's still working (he has gone quiet these last few months) and if so, 2) if he can schedule our hedge trimming this fall. If not, we'll have to find someone else to do them. Pain in the butt.

Two-fer

Here's a second shot of the château/hotel in La Roque-Gageac. I couldn't choose between the the two photos, so I'm posting them both.

They have a lot of rooftops in La Roque-Gageac.

Yesterday's cool front came roaring through as expected. The wind was fierce, but we got no rain or thunder. This morning the sky is clear; not a cloud to be seen. The wind, thankfully, is gone.

Vie de château

From what I can glean from the internet, this beautifully restored and updated château in La Roque-Gageac operates as a hotel. It has nine rooms and can accommodate up to sixteen guests at a time. I don't believe that the rooms are rented individually, but are rented to large groups like families or for business retreats. One web site posts the cost for one week at between six and ten thousand euros. And there's a swimming pool on the grounds.

The château/hotel at La Roque-Gageac.

We're expecting a hot day today, then an abrupt cool-off over night. It looks like the cold front's thunderstorms will stay off to our east. Thank goodness.

Stoney end

De deux choses, l'une (one of two things). This upended corbel was either designed to be the end of the wall it's in or it was repurposed from an existing building/ruin. I think it was more likely repurposed. Either way, it's a dramatic way to adorn a stone wall.

Like a rock.

As for today's title, I had Streisand's 1970 album (Stoney End), on vinyl. It was a gift from a high school friend. The song, a single from the 1967 album "More Than a New Discovery," was written and first recorded by Laura Nyro. I was unaware.

Again with the river

Apparently, I liked the views of the Dordogne River from the heights and the overlooks. This one's a little closer to water level. Still around La Roque-Gageac. Looking downstream, I believe.

La Dordogne in the spring of 2006.

Busy morning today. I'm making a pharmacy run for renewed prescriptions, going to the supermarket for some stuff, and then to the recycle center to get rid of some other stuff. Can you feel the excitement?!

Rooftops

Looking down on the Dordogne River. From where, exactly? I'm not certain, but based on a blog post I did at the time, I'd say that it's La Roque-Gageac. If it seems like my memory is fuzzy, well, it is. But also, these photos are from our 2006 trip to the area. Except for the blog posts I did then, I didn't keep notes. Our blogs have become our memory.

Rooftops along the Dordogne.

Yesterday was nice and sunny, but just barely warm enough to wear shorts.

I got plenty of nuttin'

Not much going on here. We're trying to adjust to the abrupt (and premature) arrival of fall. Brr. Long pants, long sleeves, more blankets on the bed. Maybe we'll get lucky and have an Indian summer.

Vines and rosebuds and a little window in Domme.

Since the weekend's rain, I'm expecting the grass to have a growth spurt and be ready for another mow. But so far, nuttin'. I suppose the cool snap is slowing things down. It is a little less brown.

Holy cow!

We woke up to a chilly 13ºC (about 55ºF) this morning. I missed seeing the full moon set by a few minutes. As for our morning walk, I wore three layers, one of them fleece. Tasha wore her fur. It feels like a crisp, fall day. What a wacky weather year.

Cows grazing in the Dordogne Valley. "Meuh !"

Down a lazy river

This is the view of the Dordogne River from the overlook in Domme.

A whole lot of agriculture going on.

We had steady rain for most of the day yesterday. Wet, wet, wet. There was hardly any wind, so that was nice. It all seems to be gone this morning. We sure needed the rain.

Saucisson sec

These dried sausages are a staple in France. Made mostly from pork and sometimes duck or boar, they're flavored with herbs and other aromatics, and can include nuts like walnuts, hazelnuts, or pistachios. They're hung to dry (and sometimes lightly smoked) until they resemble Italian salami, pepperoni, or Spanish chorizo. The style of saucisson you find varies from region to region across the country.

From left to right, top row: sanglier (wild boar), pur porc fumé (smoked pork), noix (walnut).

Bottom row: canard (duck), cêpes (porcini mushroom), poivre (black pepper).

We're expecting some rain today. How much? When? If? Who can say?

Eglise Abbatiale Sainte-Marie

Or, if you prefer, the abbey church of Saint Mary. It's in Souillac. I'm still shuffling old photos, so some are somewhat out of order. But they're still from our trip to the Dordogne region in April 2006. Souillac is actually in the Lot, by the way. But it's on the Dordogne River and it's very close to the Dordogne département.

Angles, arches, and corbels, oh my!

All of a sudden, it seems, it feels like fall. Such a wacky weather year!

Grand Hotel

The Grand Hotel in Souillac is grand, indeed. I wonder what it looks like inside. On a warm day, that terrasse would be a grand place to have a glass of wine or a coffee.

It must look even grander when those trees leaf out.

Today is a holiday in France. People who take Friday off get a four-day weekend.

Back up

Something caught my eye in this street scene in Souillac. We stopped there before arriving in the Dordogne, so it's kind of out of order with the rest of the photos I've been posting recently. But that's okay.

Shapes and textures in Souillac.

The cool air is nice. Our lack of recent rain is taking its toll. The grass in most of the neighborhood is brown. I don't think anyone waters their lawn (including us) and that's a good thing. Vegetable gardens get water, and potted plants. We're not under any water restrictions, but there's no reason to waste it.

La Grande Rue

You could call it "Main Street" in Domme. We visited in April, so there weren't big crowds. I can imagine this street wall-to-wall with people in July and August.

La Grande Rue in Domme.

It cooled down overnight and now the air is more respirable (breathable), as they say here. There were no storms or rain as often there is when a cool front comes through.

Domme

I know where this photo was taken! It's a restaurant in the picturesque town of Domme overlooking the Dordgone River. We parked the car and strolled around the small town, up the main street, which is lined with shops and eateries, to the esplanade and overlook.

We didn't eat here.

Boy is it hot! We hit the mid thirties yesterday. That's the mid nineties in Fahrenheit. And we're expecting more of the same today before a cool-down on Tuesday. It's been a summer season of extremes. Wet, dry, hot, cold. And there are three weeks to go until September.

Another mystery

I wonder where this is? Let the sleuthing begin. UPDATE: I believe this is Montfort in the Dordigne River Valley. Thanks to Jo Sol for the tip.

This could also be in Carlux, but we'll need to look into that.

We have a couple of hot days ahead with highs in the 90sF. Planning lamb steaks on the grill for lunch.

Souffleur de verre

We stumbled upon a glass-blowing workshop as we made our way toward Sarlat and the house we had rented for a few days in the Dordogne. By the way, Ken figured out that the town with the overlook (the last few posts) is likely Carlux, or a place nearby. He mentioned it in one of his posts from back then about our trip.

The sign outside a glass-blowing workshop.

Yesterday turned out to be a nice day. I got my chores done and we headed over to the neighbors' place for a drink at noon. Drinks and appetizers turned into lunch, naturally, and we enjoyed grilled brochettes, which I think we might call skewers or kebabs, with chicken, scallops, chorizo, and bell peppers. Served along side was a big bowl of couscous, a favorite French pasta with origins in North Africa. It was a pleasant, and delicious, afternoon.

Another view from the overlook

That's a nice looking property. I'm assuming the photo's taken from the same overlook as the last few posts. I wish I could remember the name of the place. I haven't tried to look at a map yet.

Can you spot the grazing sheep?

I cut the grass yesterday. But first I had to go to the fillin' station for some gasoline. This morning I have an early doctor appointment to get my prescriptions refilled. Following that, I've got some trimming to do in the yard. Then we're invited over the road for drinks at noon. Busy day.

Un mur en pierre

This stone wall is in the same place as yesterday's post, I think. I base that on the time that the photos were recorded. They are seconds apart, and the time agrees with the clock on the church in Tuesday's post.

A very solid looking stone wall in the Dordogne.

The rain/drizzle stopped about mid-day yesterday and the sun came out. I was able to grill some poultry sausages for lunch. This morning is chilly, but temperatures are expected to warm up into the weekend. It may even get "hot," meaning low 30sC.

A reminder: these photos were taken during a trop to the Dordogne region back in spring 2006. I was using my first digital camera (a Panasonic DMC-FZ7 bridge camera).

I'm looking over

I don't remember where I took this photo. I could probably trace our route and come up with a few guesses, but I'm too lazy. We were at an overlook, apparently, and stopped to check out the view of some small town, somewhere in the Dordogne region.

Rooftops.

This morning I'm feeling a twinge of the approaching equinox. It's dark outside, probably just the overcast sky. And the bruine (drizzle). Sunrise is at 06h41. It's dark outside when I get up, unless I sleep late, and late for me is any time after 06h30. It's my turn to walk Tasha this morning. I just looked outside again and it looks quite wet out there.

La Dordogne

Back in the spring of 2006, Ken and I and our friend, Sue, spent a few days in the Dordogne region of southwestern France. I thought I'd recycle some of the photos from that trip and post them again. We'll see how far I get. If you really want to dive in, click on "dordogne" in the side bar.

A church not far from Souillac.

We're still having pleasant weather. Yay! I'll be cutting grass again soon.

And one more

Here's another in my mini-series of photos taken on or near the Roman road in Saint-Aignan. This one is a typical farmhouse called une longère. Houses in this style typically face south and are one-room deep. Windows on the north side, if there are any, are generally small. Sometimes, livestock occupied one end of the building. These days, many longères have been renovated with bigger window openings, finished attics, and other modern amenities.

A longère overlooking a vineyard.

If the weather gurus are correct, this week should be quite pleasant. I'll probably try to get the grass mowed again.

Another one

Here's another photo taken near where yesterday's picture was taken. I don't have much to say about it other than that. Oh, and it's from Spring 2006.

The dirt road is a vestige of an ancient Roman road.

I used the new weed eater to tame the wild patch out next to the driveway. I liked the wild patch, but it looks better trimmed up. I let it go wild years ago because it's difficult to mow; its rock border could easily destroy a lawnmower blade.

Throwback

I took this photo in the spring of 2006 just outside of Saint-Aignan, not far from the zoo. I'm pretty sure I posted the color version back then. Here it is again, this time in black and white.

Tree in a field.

This weekend, traffic on the roads is predicted to be very heavy. It's when the July vacationers, les juillettistes, head back home and the August vacationers, les aoûtiens head out. Traffic is thick in all directions. They call it le chassé-croisé d'été.

Wild chicory

This is, I believe, chicorée sauvage (wild chicory), a summertime favorite wildflower. It grows on the edges of the vineyard parcels out back, along with Queen Anne's lace and other perennial wildflowers.

The intense blue of wild chicory is a summer staple.

The temperature is going down (slightly) but the humidity is staying up. This is not the crushing humidity that I remember from places like Washington, DC, and other parts of the south and northeast. Still, we feel it and it's uncomfortable. It will pass before too long.

Curvature of the Earth

Ok, not really. More like the curvature of the vineyard. In France, most vineyards are planted on hillsides to take advantage of natural drainage. In this photo, you can see how the vineyard parcels out back drain into ravines on the left and right (where the trees are), then down into the river below. Our hamlet, visible in the center, is built on a high spot above the river.

The vineyards out back last Friday morning. Looking northeasterly.

Yesterday, while not as hot as the day before, was particularly uncomfortable because of high humidity. It felt like every movement was a chore. I did a little yard work in the morning, nothing strenuous I can assure you, after which I was drenched. There was more "heat lightning" over night (I didn't sleep much), but no storms where we are, and this morning we're at a cool 23ºC (about 73ºF). It's still lourd (humid), but we don't feel it as much. That will change once the sun comes up.